I just wanted to send a quick note out, I never seem to have easy journeys – be warned not to travel with me! Inspite of waking at 4 and staying awake until 5.30 ish, I flew up when my alarm went at 7, raced down to breakfast before final packing. Imagine my embarrassment when the flush button pushed in and didn’t come out again on the loo. So I am afraid I left the lovely hotel with a present they ain’t going to appreciate. Arrived at the airport through very heavy traffic since it was early Monday morning and it was raining in Florence, went through security where they said iPads have to come out of cases. Argh – having wrapped my iPad in my pyjamas and smalls, I was mortified when various frilly pants flew onto the rollator where I had to scramble to retrieve them and go through with a red face. As always I beeped and had to go back and forth while stony faced Italian ladies in comfortable shoes zapped me with their light sabre. Eventually got through and met such a lovely American lady who was even more stressed than I was so we bonded over mutual agitation. In fact we are now friends on face book so hi Dawn! Having gone through passport control and sat in the waiting lounge we all had to go back and repeat the process for some unknown reason.

Finally arrived at Heathrow and caught four further trains, dashing up and down platforms with my two enormous suitcases, I managed to get into first class for one leg and was given free fruit cake and a cup of tea. I had been longing for one and I have to say it wasn’t as wonderful as I had hoped but tomorrow I can make my own. Goodness I could not believe how cold it was once I arrived at the final station at 6pm to be met by my long suffering ex hub, who sweetly had bought milk and who drove me to fetch Harry from school. Just so lovely to hug him and catch up with him and Jamie dropped us home where the boiler was sulking. Cat hopping around in great excitement to see us and I found some mince in the freezer and threw something together with rice. Ahhhhhhhh. And so to bed.

This is my last night, definitely mixed emotions – I am so excited to get home and see my babes and friends and sleep in my own bed but this has been such a pause on my real life. I have slowed down because I could only focus on the Italian and the singing, the negotiating life with strangers and the process of keeping busy, visiting galleries and museums and eating in different cafes and restaurants on my own. On the other hand it has been amazing to really get to know this wonderful city in all its beauty and its noisy, bustling life. The streets are always crowded even in November, the pavements are dirty with trash and dog poo, bikes and electric scooters whizz past you all the time, cars wait patiently -for Italians – as the streets are so congested. Workers with massive bags of laundry balance them and sometimes family members, on scooters (not the Vespa type but the foot type) weaving in and out. Police sirens can be heard at all hours clashing with the many bells in the city. The history of the place is visible and tangible everywhere, there is not a building which doesn’t have some connection with the past. Of course the art – the collections of statuary, paintings, frescoes, monuments, buildings and gardens not to mention the food, music, and all the culture in general – are extraordinary. No wonder so many students are here. It feels safe, although I was warned that there are pick pockets and of course there are people asking for money, I have felt safe and confident. I have met some new friends and felt so supported both here and from home.

Today I decided to try and see some of the places I had not managed to before, I went to Santo Spirito to see the central market which is food, vegetables, crafts and others. The church is absolutely beautiful, definitely one of my favourite, the chapel owned by the Fresobaldi family has some wonderful art and an extraordinary altar which sits underneath the small cupola. Just off the church is a wooden cross and depiction of Jesus by Michelangelo when he was only 17, you’re not allowed to take photos but it is lovely as he is so young and simple. There is also a lovely peaceful garden in the middle of the cloister with lemon trees and a fountain. A friend told me to go to the rooftop cafe at rinascente which is like a department store in Piazza Republica. Unfortunately I was a muppet and went to the cafe on the top floor but didn’t find the roof top one until afterwards. I then walked to the market at San Ambroglio but it was shut. So after quite a long walk back I checked out a cafe which had been recommended and turned out to be brilliant. I wish I had found it before but I can thoroughly recommend it, it’s called Melaleuca and is quite an unusual place, very popular. I had the most delicious plate of sweet labneh with fruit and flowers with a frozen chai as it was very warm by then. Then I went back to the hotel to rest my feet and have a rest and check in my flight online. For the evening I went out again and some of the streets have got their Christmas lights on now so it looked lovely. I discovered a place which happened to be full of three different tables of Americans so they were very jolly. I had pasta as my last supper because I thought I should honour the tradition in this place, it had a delicious – what it called duck sauce.

Thank you dear Firenze for such an amazing time, I feel enriched, enlightened, nourished and fatter!

I got up early this morning to say goodbye to my host and then went back and finished packing and sorting out my bedroom. I then had a chat with my hostess, Eva over a cup of coffee and a banana. She is very sweet and said I am welcome to return which is great. Stefano got up and the two of them helped me with my suitcases, you need a key for the lift and they got me out to the taxi too. Arrived at my same hotel as before and my bedroom has been upgraded which is very nice. I have an actual bath so I can’t wait for that. Sadly my kettle doesn’t work and all I wanted was a cup of tea but I can always get one downstairs.

I went out for a walk and to a shop which Eva had recommended to buy presents for home, a very nice jewellery shop which is not expensive – unusual in Florence. Then I went to the Christmas market at Santa Croce. One stall wanted to charge €10 for a bowl of potatoes where another one charged €4 for the same thing. Luckily I am a bit tougher than I was at the beginning so as he asked for the money I said no thanks and walked away. Disappointingly the Christmas stuff was not good so I saved myself there but I did buy some chocolate covered orange sticks – a weakness for me. Had a good wander around and took my time because I could. I had a moment of peace and quiet looking at the river where there is a weir, it felt calming. Back at the hotel for a wee rest, I discovered BBC news channel which is in English, very interesting stuff about Trump and AI and various troubles round the world. My host messaged me to say I had left something behind and did I need it – it was a gel toe protector to help my arthritic toe with all the working – looked disgusting and I was so embarrassed. Asked them to please throw away.
I took myself out to dinner, walking along familiar streets in the warmth of a Florentine evening with lights and laughter. I found what looked like a nice place and sat down below the pavement in what turned out to be a place dedicated to beef. Beef any which way and I asked for vegetarian food, there was a kind of Bateman cartoon moment but the resulting food was actually delicious. Parmigiana melanzana, spinach and roast veg with a glass of wine. Thanking you. Then back to the hotel walking along beside the river again and arriving in time for a glass of Vin Santo before going to my room and taking a deliciously indulgent bath. I can’t remember the last time I took a bath and boy it felt good, listening to my music and musing. So tomorrow is my last day, I wonder what it will bring.

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Nothing untoward happened in the night and we got to school in good time. Luisa one of the teachers, had said she collected bottles so I bought her a bottle of Guinness to say thank you for the lessons, she is such a sweetie and finds me hilarious. She wrote a message on the board for me and they all said they will miss me which is lovely. I flew down the hundreds of stairs at break and bought a cake for Elena my other teacher, I had tried to find a lion bar as she loves lions but failed. We had a good lesson even though I find masculine/feminine articles and possessive adjectives difficult. We said goodbye again and I promised to return one day to school. It was sad to say goodbye to Siranee as she is such a lovely person and we have become friends but c’est la vie. I got a certificate for completing my two weeks of school so that’s great and also a book with answers to all the questions in the book so I can practice at home. Or to sell to friends who might want to come here – just let me know!
I decided that when in Florence do what – actually none of the locals do and go and eat at the famous Gilli restaurant which Count Negroni favoured. Goodness it is overpriced and rather pretentious with grumpy waiters who are terribly stressed by all their customers! Do look at the wine menu! (Photo) I had a glass of Prosecco to celebrate and a thing which said it was Granny’s pie with apples and walnuts. Granny would have been mighty disapproving I can tell you – a small mousse more like, but it tasted nice. Followed by affogato which was good and then I wandered back to Santa Croce again to say goodbye to the dear old place. It is a home from home and always a welcome sight, I have had some good times there and thereabouts.

I decided to go to the Casa Buonarotti which is the fascinating home of the descendants of Michelangelo and where he himself lived for a while. The family have done an amazing job of brining together some of his works which they own and which he passed to his nephew who then passed them to his nephew both called Lorenzo. It is amazing to see a book of pictures of the ceiling of the Cistine Chapel which Michelangelo gave to the pope and which have his handwriting on them. Also the most beautiful statue which he made of himself as a child carving a head of a faun, you have to stop and think about that for a moment. Some lovely pictures and paintings by him of course, he was a talented guy.

After all that I went back ‘home’ along now familiar streets in order to pack and await my last supper. I bought a tiny present for Fabio and Eva – difficult as he doesn’t drink and doesn’t seem to eat the cake either but I bought a nice piece of honeycomb and a lovely smelling soap in a health shop so hope that’s ok.

Supper was homemade pizza and bread with prosciutto and salami and bread to follow and a small salad with oranges and fennel. So not sure what my poor stomach is going to do with that. Interestingly my skin has been bad over the last few days and I’m not sure what that’s down to. Anyway they were lovely and liked my gifts. I said goodbye to Lawrence, sadly as he has been a good companion here and it definitely helped to have someone who spoke English and who knew the way to school plus he is a good man and very kind to me. I won’t see him in the morning as he is going to Venice for the day and he has another week of school. Fabio also is leaving early so I am not sure if I’m going to see him, I am sure Stefano will be asleep so it might be me and Eva. She is such a sweetie and it will be good to have a bit of time with her if we can before my taxi comes to take me to my hotel. I just hope I can check in in the morning as I don’t fancy lugging my enormous suitcase around Florence all day. Then two days to myself before I fly home on Monday. Flights are much more expensive at the weekend and it will be good to have a couple of days to do anything I haven’t done yet. Ciao for now.

After the excitement of yesterday, today was a lot tamer although it started badly with Laurence taking a detour to kindly show me the place where our senorina works which overlooks the duomo, bello. But after that he did the equivalent of mansplaining by taking the lead to get us to school and getting hopelessly lost. By this time we were in danger of getting late so I quietly suggested I might also look in my phone and follow the very useful app City Maps thus getting us there five minutes later whereupon we had to ascend the 5000 ( I swear there are more every day) and arriving in a sweaty heap. As I had chosen today to wear my rather lovely leather trousers, I was not best pleased to be silently steaming away during grammar class. To be fair he later apologised and he is sweet enough to walk with me every day while I prattle on at him not having the first idea of where we are as I am not paying attention. We played games again in class today with Luisa, she is a great teacher and so encouraging. During the second lesson our conversation revolved around the trip which Siranee and I took yesterday to the cake shop. Elena carefully drew pictures of all the different cakes and described them in Italian. I think my favourite is tiramisu (or pick me up) or maybe millefoglie. We then went on to describe different professions and the titles thereof. Any word beginning with IDR is to do with water thus idraulico/a is a plumber. A dentista is a mechanic – only kidding. A farfallina is a bow tie (a butterfly tie). A brief case is a ventiquattro ore =24 hours!

After class I went again with Siranee to a cafe where we brought sandwiches, I should not have eaten as I can’t eat bread but it was a croissant (cornetto) with ham. We had such an interesting conversation all about Buddhism as I really wanted to know, it is a most ethical and seemingly reachable religion however to achieve the full nobility by turning away from desire is a difficult goal for many humans – certainly for me. We decided that if Jesus, the Buddha and the Dali lama were all sitting at our table they would get on really well.

After that she and I joined Lawrence and other students and went for a tour of a particular gallery where the husband of the woman who showed us around, makes a variety of sculptures and also the most extraordinary pictures using earth and ground terracotta and sand from various places. The gallery is called Terra Di Burchi and you can find it on instagram. Most interesting pieces, some of which were truly beautiful. The most lovely thing to me was a very nice picture of two faces which can be seen any which way but the amazing thing was that if you turned it over and opened the lovely leather clasp on the back, inside there was a blank book of beautiful paper and the idea is that you give it as a wedding present for them to write their life story on it. Or the picture can be changed to a baby and be a christening present of whatever, it was a very nice thing. There were lots of pictures of love between couples, parent and child and Mother Earth and sky or past and future – relationships and interactions and the use of the earth made them more elemental. None of us bought anything but we know where she is if we need to return. There was a dude called Count Negroni who asked his favourite cafe Gili to invent a new cocktail for him and guess what they called it? So this artist did a picture of the cocktail using the earth from the Count’s Villa (see photo). Having listened to the whole tour in Italian we were all pretty tired by the end so at five we left and went to our separate homes to do homework. N

Supper tonight was delicious spaghetti con i polipetti in tomato sauce (octopus) with Parmesan and bread followed by bread, mozzarella, prosciutto crudo, mortadella with pistacchio, Tuscan salami and strangely but nonetheless deliciously- hot spinach with garlic. A little treat was vino bianco frizzante followed by a little chocolate biscuit. Groaning now! Tomorrow is my last day at school and my last night here. Eek!

Wow wow wow wow! What a day, a fortnight, a life this is! Today has blown my mind – in case you wondered.
So this morning we went to school as per usual and had good lessons, we are still doing present irregular verbs and believe me, that’s enough for me for now. Conversation was good, all about the house and the various names for things in the bathroom, bedroom, etc. For homework we have to describe ourselves, our character and hobbies etc and our homes to read out tomorrow. Not too bad. For lunch I went with Siranee who is a lovely lady originally from Thailand but now living in Zurich which she finds very cold – to her favourite pasticceria where she goes every day to try a different cake. I had a delicious pastry thing with spinach and egg warmed up and we stood up in the cafe to eat. I love this habit – so Italian, you whizz into a cafe and grab a quick cup of coffee in a proper cup, drink standing up and go on your way. They are very keen on recycling and on not having waste everywhere so they hate water bottles and throw away cups. Mind you everyone smokes and butts are all over the place, mixing with the dog poo which is also everywhere. I was wondering why my legs are quite so tired at the end of the day and realised today that walking on had pavements is bad but here the pavements are mostly all broken so you constantly step down into the road and then step back to avoid being run over. You also step down to avoid the poo.
So, after lunch I went to my singing lesson – my last one. This time it was two hours as opposed to one and for the first time I would be singing with a professional pianist. So I was quite nervous and although I had been trying to learn the song, I had not had much time to learn it. So, Beatrice and I did a quick warm up and then we got to work. First of all she had me sing one of the pieces I knew from home – Caro Mio Ben by Giordani so that he could hear my voice and see what he was working with. At the end they chatted together a bit and then he said some lovely things. I got goose bumps and told them so, they were very complimentary and it made me feel amazing. So then we worked through it, breaking it down and correcting my mistakes. Then we sang the O Del Mio Dolce Ardor by Gluck which I was trying to learn yesterday, she sang it with me and it went well, again correcting all my mistakes and going over and over again – both very patient. At the end of the lesson, they both said it was a shame I was going and that I must find someone in England who can help me to sing like Beatrice particularly opera and being female. We had hugs all round and I left.

I had to ring Poppy and cry down the phone, I was very moved by their words and the justification that it makes me feel about doing this crazy thing. Then I had to go and have an aperol spritz and sit in the dying sun looking at beautiful Florence and feeling so blest.

Now I am back at the house and about to do my homework before supper. I’m back, we had delicious soup with beans and pasta then air fried chicken with potatoes followed by fresh pineapple (ananas) again. Jolly conversation and chat about Venice. Who knew there were two?, another one which is less popular but also special near Padova. We have politics, geography, history and art lessons here – it’s great and very good for learning the language.
I think I shall sleep well tonight – oh yes I forgot – there was a power cut last night which meant no shower or coffee this morning – eek. Buona notte tutti. X

Today was a cold morning and I was glad of my brown leather gloves and my puffy coat, but it was still sunny. Later in the day it got actually hot enough to take off my jersey and loads of people were just in shirts, lucky us again. School was good, everyone quite jolly and responding back and forth, during conversation class it’s quite easy to steer the lesson to random things like what’s the name for a bee hive (apicoltore) the thing that the apis live in innit! Happy Apis. A caffè corretto is an espresso with alcohol – hmm, might be a celebration needed soon. A tramezzino (sandwich) always comes triangular. Don’t you just love local customs and habits.
After school, I decided to have a short walk around the place and came across this lovely piece of art from The Circle of Life gallery, outside the opera medicea laurenziana (see photo) and then I had lunch sitting in the sunshine. My salad was very good with artichokes, olives, egg and sweetcorn, when I finished I saw that the bowl had either been broken and glued together with its cousin or it was bought that way! (See photo). Anyone who knows me, knows I love frogs and this little guy (photo) was nestling at the feet of the famous boar whose nose you rub for good luck. Then I returned to the house as I had loads of music homework to do. I have to try to learn another new piece for tomorrow which is tricky but by listening over and over and reading the music with the sound – as I can’t actually read music I just look at the dots going up and down – hopefully something will go in. Tomorrow is my final lesson and it’s gonna be a two hour one instead of one hour so I shall need my coffee in the morning.

Eva was out tonight so it was just me and Fabio who cooked a huge meal, his son Stephano (no!!!) and the American Lorenzo. We had a huge plate of spaghetti al marinara and then fried potatoes cooked in rosemary and garlic with a piece of ham and cheese omelette, followed by fresh pineapple with lemon and sugar! Phew! I need to go for a run or sleep. All my jeans are definitely tighter inspite of the walking everywhere but you can’t insult the host by not eating his food. I have just realised I haven’t done my Italian homework – argh I must sign off and do it quick. X

the last photo is yesterday’s look!

Monday and the start of a new school week, one new student in class and one celebrating her compleanno -age 20 today! Good lessons and I only got two wrong in my homework so things are looking up. More irregular verbs today 9 of them to learn and they are all similar but different. Argh. So after school I went to my usual place to be greeted with Ciao Meg, how nice is that! I sat with the rug around me eating salad and drinking g

oops typo – ginger beer! Then I had my singing lesson and more one step forward and two back feeling but it was good. It’s like that thing where you pat your head and rub your tummy – it will come in time I’m sure. I recorded the lesson today so that I can listen again to her invaluable advice and also because I read it’s a good idea.
afterwards I walked ‘home’ and had a headache, probably not enough water but I had a rest on the bed and listened to music before supper. Oh yes last night an alarm went off at about 3 and I lay there waiting for Fabio to shout get out and thinking would I have enough time to put on my bra and grab my passport?! Nothing happened but I didn’t sleep for ages so hopefully tonight will be uneventful, no idea why the alarm went off!

Today Lorenzo and I went to mass in the duomo which was amazing. The inside is huge and not overly decorated or covered in gold and paintings but nonetheless it is stunning. Today the sun streamed through the windows and made patterns on the walls and roof, when you look up into the inside of the cupola it is just lovely. There was a terrific organist who was really enjoying himself and although the choir consisted of four men, two of whom were definitely ancient, they made a good noise. Lorenzo called them the band. When the time came to offer each other the sign of peace, I turned to three people and in my best Italian, said “pleased to meet you”! Oops. We both went up and took communion and I had a rather profound moment for myself afterwards, I had a bit of a 1:1 chat with Him up there, it was moving.

We were ushered out pretty quickly at the end and so went up to the Piazza Michelangelo where, after gasping your way up hundreds of steps, you see the whole of Firenze laid out before you, definitely worth the climb. We hadn’t had enough climbing though, so went up again to see the Basilica Di San Miniato – Guess what? – more steps. Having got in there and seen the most amazing mosaic which dates from 1297!, we were told it was closing so we had to leave. That was a shame as it is an amazing place by all accounts containing some important works of art and stunning building and with a lovely garden. Next time.

Going down is easy but after so much walking we needed lunch, a pizza for him and a yummy salad with anchovies and olives for me plus a glass of beer. Home and a very necessary hand wash of some stuff followed by homework and trying to learn my music without making a noise – not easy. Fabio cooked spaghetti al pomodoro followed by turkey and fried courgettes, loads of butter but good. Tomorrow we will set off to school together and begin another week. X

What a lovely day! I had a lie in which was great and then I went to see David, I have seen him before but he’s worth a second viewing, even if I had to Q for one hour. It is so extraordinary when you see it up close and personal. Having looked around the rest of the gallery briefly I then betook myself to the Hospital of the Innocents. For those who have not been there, it is a remarkable place which was built to house the babies of women who for whatever reason, were unable to look after them. It was not an orphanage however as having taken the babies in, they would meticulously write down every detail of the clothing that it came in and any distinguishing marks. What was so moving is that the mothers would leave a trinket or a photo or even a letter with the baby but they would break it in half so that they could bring back the other half and prove which one was theirs. There are cases full of these relics, some were wrapped in hand made little cloth parcels and there are huge records kept beautifully for all the children. It is heart breaking but they looked after the kids and helped them to learn an apprenticeship which meant they could earn money for themselves. It was quite intense so I needed some fresh air and luckily they have a very nice Cafe up on the roof terrace with an amazing view so up I went. Today was a dress down – white jeans and tee shirt kind of day.

Afterwards I went to my music school and borrowed a room where I practiced singing on my own. As you know, to sing you use a lot of muscles so the more you practice the stronger they get, I should be practicing for at least an hour a day but it is really hard when you’re living with strangers in their house and where you are never sure if they or the neighbours are trying to sleep. Anyway I was jolly pleased I had done it today so I returned to the house and awaited supper.
Tonight Fabio had made a soup with tiny pasta and onion and bits of meat, followed by a piece of thin pork with salad. Eva had made a kind of cake with chocolate and nuts – there’s a theme going here. I was offered camomile tea for the first time, in fact my first tea since I have been here and jolly nice it was too. Sleep well tutti. X